Spring – Charge up your batteries and be prepared!
I love spring, but over the last 2-3 years, the weather has been very warm. Spring is over in a few weeks, and summer is here. It looks like that will happen again this year. Flowers bloom and wilt in just a few days. For example, my daffodils bloomed a couple of weeks early and lasted less than a week.
That’s why the title. Keep your camera ready and available.
This photo was taken on a cloudy morning. The conditions were perfect for the kind of results I was trying to achieve. I wanted a very artistic feel to this picture, and I think it looks pretty good.
My neighbor has two small Bradford pears, one of which is right next to my driveway. The location is perfect, yet most days, it is too bright for a dark picture. I would have to cut a flower from the tree, and I did not want to ask permission.
I took a piece of black felt and clamped one end to a tree branch and the other to an extended light stand. I then took a picture using Aperture Priority in order to see what the results were, but also to see what the camera meter was using for exposure.
Here is my first shot:
You have to agree that it is not all that impressive. I set the aperture at F6.3 and the camera set the shutter speed at 1/80 of a second. Notice that the whites are a bit too bright and the black background actually looks purple.
I changed the mode to Manual. Aperture was still F6.3, but I set the shutter speed at 1/250 sec. In my opinion, the difference was stunning.
Post processing: I used Photoshop to make a few adjustments.
Basically, I added a small amount of vignette and cropped out a small piece of white in one corner. I also desaturated the photo about 25% and added grain at a setting of 33.
That’s it! I only took 8 shots in about 5 minutes and spent about 5 minutes looking and editing on the computer.
We don’t get much snow just north of Atlanta, but when we do, I grab my camera and start snapping!As you might guess, birds don’t take time out when it snows. They still need to eat. That’s where my backyard set up comes in. This male cardinal was just the next in line to get to the feeder. Birds are literally lined up to partake of the scrumptious sunflower mix.
The Key To Good Bird Photos
You may think that the best equipment is the key, but, in my humble opinion, the real key factor in getting great backyard bird pictures is getting the birds into position. After all, if you don’t have an opportunity, the most expensive camera in the world will be of little benefit.
I make it a priority to keep the feeders full. “My birds” know they can depend on having something to eat in good times and bad.
My little Canon T4i is very capable when the birds are 3′ to 10′ away.
Check out this handsome male Eastern Blue Bird. He was posing long enough to sport a topping of snow.
Bird Feeder Placement
Another key ingredient is to get the birds in their natural environment. It was really important to place the feeders within easy photo distance of a nearby tree. Here is another male cardinal in that tree. Notice that he has a sunflower seed in his mouth – he just hopped onto the branch from the feeder.
Since the branch is only about 12′ from my window, I can easily get lots of photos like this. The snow makes these beautiful red birds look their best.
If you don’t have a tree near your feeders, you can “fake it” by clamping a branch on the feeder pole. Or, in my case, I can clamp the branch to my deck railing to get an even closer shot. (the shot above has been cropped by about 50%)
I had to take this photo (below). The red is so outstanding against the white snow as this guy was sitting in the willow tree.
So, what equipment is really important for taking great photos of backyard birds in the snow? I suggest a really good glass cleaner and some paper towels.
You’ve undoubtedly heard this expression, “get a fresh perspective,” but in photography, changing perspective can truly give you a new perspective.
I had a young photographer in one of my classes just tell me that she now had a new “favorite” type of photography after doing an assignment that involved taking pictures of the same still life setup from different angles and distances. More about that assignment later.
The object of this post is simple: If you ever get bored with the kinds of shots you are taking, or you can’t decide what to shoot, simply shoot with perspective in mind.
What is Perspective?
Perspective can mean a couple of things in photography. In fact, there are some who think about something like the picture below when they hear the term. This is a picture using Forced Perspective, which is manipulating two or more subjects to look like they are out of proportion to one another. Take a look at this picture.
These kinds of pictures are pretty cool, and, honestly, it’s not that hard to do. You just need some patience and very little know-how. Kids absolutely love to take these kinds of pictures. And it is a great way to get them motivated to take more photos and expand their knowledge.
But in most types of photography, age is not a limiting factor. Adults can have fun too, as you can see from the Eiffel Tower picture above.
So, after showing my students the picture of the Eiffel Tower being squished by two mere mortal hands, I set them loose to take some similar photos.
The results were fantastic! And I’m not just talking about image quality, because many of the pictures were blurry and poorly exposed.
What really happened that was exciting is that they got totally into the assignment. They loved the idea, and they loved their own results.
I highly recommend doing this on your own or with your kids. It is an invigorating exercise – creating excitement and energy in your photography experience. It is really good if you are struggling with “brain lock” about what to photograph next.
How This Picture Was Made
So, the idea is to position one person or object far away from the camera and another much closer to the camera.
The photographer become a director, moving people or objects to just the right place so the picture will “appear” real.
The most difficult part is getting both people (or objects) to be in focus at the same time. This is done by not having the camera too close to the closer subject. Instead, use the zoom lens of the camera to bring everything closer (even though it is not close at all).
Here is an example of a picture that is not quite perfect.
If the photographer had stepped back from the “little tree” (it’s really just a weed) and used the zoom on the camera, the two girls would have been more in focus. As it is, they are quite blurry. But the idea is excellent.
Changing Your Perspective
While forced perspective shots are very fun and exciting, there is a another kind of perspective photography that is quite different from forced perspective. What you do is change the way you see, compose, and photograph the subject or subjects.
One easy way to get started is to use still life or small objects. Take some articles from around your house and arrange them on a table. We used some books and bottles, musical instruments, and pine cones.
Here is one example of the resulting pictures.
The original scene looked like this:
Don’t you agree that the change in angle and distance from the objects made the picture more interesting???
Take another look at the close-up of the bottles. Can you see that the bottles kind of tilt into the middle of the photo? That distortion adds interest to the picture. The entire scene requires the viewer to look closer to figure out what was done to get the photo… “Exactly what did the photographer do in order to grab my interest like this?”
Another Look At Perspective
During this assignment, we had the added benefit of having lots of art equipment laying around, but we also had some old cameras.
Here is a series of photos taken by one of the students using an ancient camera as the subject.
The shot above is a nice picture because of the subject – an extremely old camera – but other than that, there is not much to hold one’s interest.
When the camera is photographed from a different angle and from much closer, we have a new perspective. Here it is…
And here’s another one with some overexposure due to backlighting. It is a unique shot because of the highlight and the composition, having the subject off center.
One more shot, taking this idea of changing angles to the extreme. This time, the student got down below the old camera. It definitely makes you take a second look, doesn’t it?
Take Your Photography To The Next Level
As you read and study about photography, you see plenty of technical writing focusing on technique and analysis of the way a camera operates. What shutter speed is best? Choose the right f-stop. What about white balance?
Sometimes this information is so scientific and obscure that it makes one’s head hurt. Using the creative side of the brain allows you (or your students) to take some excellent pictures without having to get a degree in engineering or computer science.
It’s fun, exciting, and it keeps us coming back for more.
Taking pictures with very little light is a challenging, yet rewarding endeavor. This is one aspect of photography that does take some planning and knowledge of your camera.
Practice and planning are key to success. (Justin Kern not only used planning and practice, he used some very advanced techniques to get this final image. It is not one that many novices can accomplish, but it is worthy of our goals. “Shoot for the stars,” and you will eventually be able to do this.)
Here are 5 tips that may help you get a better picture.
1. Use a tripod. This is actually not just a tip, it is essential for low-light photography. When you are using shutter speeds of a second or more, it is impossible to hold your camera steady to get a sharp picture.
Of course, you can use a solid surface such as a retaining wall or a rock as a substitute tripod, but you will be limiting the flexibility you get with a tripod in that you are able to move your tripod, whereas a wall is pretty permanent.
For the photo of Garret Lake above, I was on my way to work when I was stopped dead by this scene. I did not have my tripod, so I placed my Canon Rebel on a fence post to take this picture.
2. Shoot in Manual Mode. I know this is not for the first time shooter, but it is yet another reason for practicing before the big event. (If your situation gives you time, this is an excellent time to practice.) Many times the camera will not interpret the light the way you see it.
3. Include a foreground element for interest. In my picture of Garrett Lake above, notice how the foreground foliage adds interest to the picture. In the photo below, the photographer used some usually unattractive discarded tires. Try this technique, it will produce some really interesting results. Now, not every item adds interest, so experimenting is highly recommended.
4. Use a timer or shutter release button. If your picture uses a slow shutter speed (which it will using low-light), just pressing the shutter button can cause camera shake and ruin your image. The “no-frill” solution to this is setting your camera on a timer. My Canon Rebel has a 2-sec or a 10-sec setting. I use the 2-sec timer – it is very effective in eliminating camera shake.
Alternatively, you can purchase a remote shutter button. The one I use has a short cord, and it costs only a few bucks. Wireless shutter release buttons are more expensive, but they give the photographer more flexibility.
5. Check your settings. I include this tip in almost all of my posts about learning to be a better photographer, because I don’t think I’m alone when I say this.. I have lost many shots because I did not check my settings before shooting.
My most common mistakes include leaving the 10-sec timer on and having the wrong ISO selected. Just sayin’.. check ’em (the settings).
Here are a few pretty nice photos demonstrating low-light photography.
Some pictures are from Flickr.com. Attribution given in that images are linked to the original photos.
Now, it’s time to grab your camera and start shooting!
When you have been around photography for a long time, you start to take some things for granted. It just occurred to me that there are lots of new DSLR users who are looking for a good lens to supplement the kit lens that was purchased with their camera, and they don’t know which one to choose.
I think we take things for granted at times, and it usually happens in the area where we are most comfortable.
For instance, if you love to cook, it’s easy to talk about cooking and use the jargon of the cooking world.
Or, if you are really good at tennis, your language reflects your knowledge.
But what happens if you meet someone who knows very little about your area of comfort? She knows nothing about the meaning of 15-Love or Deuce (in tennis), or he can’t comprehend what you mean when you talk about letting your dough rest (cooking terms).
That’s where I’m coming from in this article. I’m assuming you are looking for a novice’s explanation of some of the most common photography tips you read about from lots of different sources.
To be honest, I was inspired to do this when I read an article at ourfifthhouse.com. It is now on my personal recommended reading list when I feel myself getting too geeky with my photography lingo.
However, I was thinking that there are a few more photography tips for beginners that did not make it into the article.
The ideas represented in this article are meant to give you some added incentive to “go deeper” than just using your DSLR as a point and shoot camera. By the way, I actually did recommend using your camera like a point and shoot model in the previous article, but you should not stay on Auto by any means.
It’s true, your DSLR has been created in a way that will make your shots better simply because of the larger sensor (physically larger, not “megapixels larger”). But you really do need to get more creative and adventurous with your photography to get better.
Getting more creative may lead you to some really horrible shots at first, but stick with it and you will get better. Trust me. I know this is true, because I was there myself.
OK, so here is my first photo tip:
You read it right! Set your mode dial to the big M. When you do, expect the worst, but don’t allow discouragement. Look at it as an adventure.
One hint as you start on this adventure is to move the mode dial to P and partially press the shutter button. Look at the settings the camera would select as you focus on your chosen subject. This will give you a starting point when you move to Manual.
**note: Don’t do this for the first time at a major event. Do it when you can afford to make mistakes.
Once you have set your mode dial, take a big breath.. you are now in the adventure zone – total control. From here, there are three things to adjust, Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO (don’t freak, read on for the explanation). These three things control how your picture will look.
Aperture means the size of the lens opening, and it is also referred to as f-stop. As you select a lower number, the opening of the lens gets bigger. Higher numbers mean the opening gets smaller. Keep in mind that the way the numbers work seems backwards.. don’t worry, you will get used to this.
Larger opening (smaller number like f/4) = more light
Smaller opening (larger number like f/11) = less light
Shutter Speed is how fast the camera’s shutter opens and closes. This is measured in seconds or fractions of seconds. For instance, the fastest shutter speed on a Canon Rebel is 1/4000 of a second. The higher the number, the more light will get into the camera. (When looking at fractions, the higher the number on the bottom, the faster the shutter speed. So 1/500 is a faster shutter speed than 1/50.)
ISO has something to do with Light Sensitivity of your camera’s sensor. Think about it as an acronym for Is the Sun On (credit ourfifthhouse.com for this idea). As you change the ISO, you change the way your camera is affected by the available light.
Under normal, sunny conditions, you want to set your ISO to its lowest point. On most cameras that is 100. When there is less light, change your ISO to a higher number.
Why change the ISO at all? When there is less light, your settings have to change to compensate and get enough light into the camera to record a well exposed picture. And, if you are trying to hold your camera rather than have it steadied on a tripod, your shutter speed must be fast enough so that the image is not blurred by your own movement. Being able to increase the ISO will also allow you to increase the shutter speed.
Now you can start practicing! Check the picture in the LCD after each shot. As you play with the settings, really pay attention to what happens to your image. When you change one setting, you will probably have to change another setting to compensate for the amount of light.
Here are a few ways to experiment with the Manual Mode:
Change the Aperture value to see what happens, and pay particular attention to how much of the picture is in focus. Wider lens openings create blurry backgrounds while smaller openings put more of the picture in focus.
Change the shutter speed to see how much you can slow it down before you can no longer hold your camera steady enough for a sharp photo. Also try to figure out how fast your shutter has to operate to stop action.
Test the ISO in dark areas to see how high you can go before you pictures start to get grainy.
By the way, as you shoot in Manual Mode, you will be learning more about exposure than you ever thought you could. Come back and post a comment about your experience.